San Vito Lo Capo: the Caribbean of Sicily
There are many places to visit if you come on holiday in Sicily, and one of them is certainly San Vito lo Capo. San Vito (called ”Santu Vitu” by its inhabitants) is considered one of the most popular summer destinations.
The west coast, which includes several areas of Trapani, such as the Zingaro Nature Reserve and the Gulf of Castellammare to the east and the Gulf of Macari to the west, has been compared by many to the Caribbean, for the crystal clear waters and golden sand that characterise this area, and for this reason it has been nicknamed the ”Sicilian Caribbean”. July and August are the periods when this area is mostly invaded by tourists, but despite everything it is a very quiet destination that can give you the relaxation you need.
What to see
There are many places to visit if you come to this area and many works of architecture not to be missed.
The Fortress – Sanctuary
It stands out, majestic in one of the busiest streets in the town. This fortress is dedicated to the cult of San Vito, which for centuries has attracted thousands of pilgrims every year. It is a building of singular architecture that has played a military, civil and religious role for centuries. The fortress has its own history, which is fascinating and a source of tourist attraction.
It is said that St Vitus lived here before his martyrdom and, immediately after his death, pilgrims from all over the world came to pray to the saint in the small chapel dedicated to him. The tower, with Ghibelline merlons and no openings on the walls except for the embrasures, recalls the military history of this place; the rose window, the niches and the bell tower, on the other hand, the religious history; the internal staircase, the balconies and terraces with gardens, the civil history.
Inside, the central chapel of San Vito Martire is immediately noticeable, with a statue of a young San Vito in the centre and saints all around. From here you enter a hypogeum where there was once the “Well of St Vitus” with water considered miraculous. In the hypogeum there is a silver reliquary that houses a piece of the saint’s skull. Don’t forget to visit also the small but wonderful museum: there are silverware, gifts for the graces received by the saint, a wooden statue of the Immaculate and many other objects.
Chapel of St Crescentia
On the outskirts of the village, it is impossible not to notice the small chapel built in the 13th century in honour of St Vitus’ nurse, Crescentia. Its shape stands out against the blue sky and the bay of Macari. It is said that it was here that Crescenzia died of fright after turning to take a last look at her village, Conturrana, which was collapsing under an avalanche. The district, in fact, is called Valanga.
The Zingaro Nature Reserve
A few kilometres from San Vito you will find this beautiful reserve. The symbol of the reserve is the dwarf palm tree, which transforms the landscape into a heavenly oasis. There are seven kilometres of coastline full of small bays, sharp rocks and prehistoric caves.
There are several paths to reach it:
• a higher, almost mountainous, very steep route, suitable for trained and experienced people;
• hilly, more accessible;
• the more linear and moderately strenuous coastal route.
The reserve has pre-established trails that it is advisable to follow without venturing out as the path is rough. There are also 5 small museums along the way:
• of Maritime Activities;
• of Rural Civilisation
• Manna;
• Naturalistic;
• of the Interweaving.
They are very small but each one tells the extraordinary story of Sicily’s maritime and farming civilisation.
The Lighthouse
Observing the landscape of San Vito from the urban beach, the silhouette of the renowned town lighthouse can be seen. This is one of the oldest and most useful in the Mediterranean. Since 1859 its lights have been warning mariners about the rocky shoal in front of San Vito. The lighthouse consists of a block of flats, while the actual lighthouse is a 40-metre high tower that rises majestically above the coast and from which a beam of light covers 20 nautical miles.
The lighthouse is a 10-minute walk from the centre, in an area that is not usually frequented by tourists. The atmosphere is magical, especially at sunset or in the evening when the lighthouse is lit. All around is a reef area with crystal-clear water without many crowds. From here, then, you can enjoy an extraordinary panorama of the entire Gulf of San Vito Lo Capo.
The beach
One of the wonders that characterise San Vito is undoubtedly its urban beach: on one side Monte Monaco, on the other the San Vito lighthouse and it feels like the Caribbean. There are 3 km of fine sand that merge into a crystal clear sea. The sand is very clear, the water never cold and almost always calm. Beyond the metres where it “touches”, this beach becomes a paradise for those who love diving and the sea bed. Behind the beach is the San Vito promenade with bars, restaurants and shops, and immediately afterwards the village with its characteristic white houses.
Another pearl to be found a few kilometres before arriving in San Vito Lo Capo is the stretch of coastline around the villages of Macari and Castelluzzo. Here it seems as if you are in a paradise: just a few houses, surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation, and all around the blue sea that joins an infinite sky.
The first small beach you come across is Calazza, partly sandy but with pebbles in the water. This stretch of coastline reaches as far as the Bay of Santa Margherita. There are a total of seven coves along this stretch of coast. Further on is the large beach of Macari: here the splendid Cala del Bue Marino (Cove of the Sea Ox) opens up. Immediately afterwards there is Isulidda (small island), which takes its name from the small island opposite. Opposite is the Isulidda Tower, which stands guard over this stretch of coastline.
The ‘’Tonnara del Secco’’
This tunny-fishing factory has been closed since 1965, but its architecture is still standing. It takes its name from the shallow waters in front of the buildings. The history of this tuna fishery begins in prehistoric times: remains of tuna fishing were found in the caves around it.
It was then the Romans who used the tanks to process the fish and create garum, the favourite condiment of the Roman table. Authorised in 1412 by Ferdinand of Aragon, the tonnara belonged to the Monastery of Santa Rosalia in Palermo until 1872.
The buildings, which can be seen today, were built from 1872 onwards by Vito Foderà, former owner of the Tonnara Magazzinazzi in Castellamare.
After Foderà’s death, the Tonnara was bought by the Plaja brothers in 1929, who managed it until 1965, when it closed. The tonnara is also famous for being used as a set for some episodes of Montalbano. Today the tonnara still has boats in disuse and nets for the fishing, preserved in the various warehouses.
Scopello
A few kilometres from San Vito Lo Capo, on the other side of the Zingaro Nature Reserve, is Scopello, a district of Castellammare del Golfo. This is also a popular destination for tourists. The village is watched over by the Bennistra Tower, the most majestic of the watchtowers on this stretch of coast. Scopello is most famous for its Tonnara with stacks, one of the best preserved in Sicily. Built around 1200, it belonged to the Florio family until it was finally closed in 1981. The two stacks are a wonder of the place and the more adventurous can reach them by swimming in a few strokes. The sea bed is deep blue with a rich marine flora and fauna.
Festivities
One of the many festivities that characterise the town of San Vito is the Cous cous fest. Cous cous is an Arab-Berber dish that is part of the regional tradition and in San Vito Lo Capo they have made it the protagonist by dedicating a festival to it in September: it is a gastronomic event but above all one of cultural integration.
Typical dishes
Couscous is eaten all year round in all restaurants: it is made with semolina, soaked in fish soup and topped with fish, molluscs, crustaceans, vegetables, saffron and more. Another typical dish of this area is busiate, a local handmade pasta that is served with tomato, swordfish or Trapanese pesto. Desserts abound, including Castellammare’s ‘cassatelle’.
Not to be missed
If you come to the Trapani area, you must visit the beautiful Segesta, with its Greek temple, or the suggestive Erice, from the top of which you have a view of the whole city of Trapani and of course Trapani itself, full of wonders, all waiting to be discovered.
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